But one of my biggest pet peeves is when “trainers” misrepresent themselves either on their Websites or in-person to clients. While I’m not offended when people select other trainers, I am offended when these so-called trainers aren’t called out on their marketing mumbo-jumbo.

In your quest to find a competent, experienced trainer who won’t damage the bond you have with your dog–one who will actually improve it– here are things you should look for:

They don’t call themselves behaviorists (unless they are)

Calling yourself an Animal Behaviorist is misleading. Unless you have a CAAB after your name, it’s a big, fat lie. A Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist has done the following:

• Obtained an undergraduate degree
• Completed post-graduate education receiving a Master’s (2-year full time) or Ph.D.(4-year full time) degree in a behavioral science, or DVM or VMD degree with a behavioral residency.
• Passed oral and written examinations given by their faculty committees.
• Published articles in scientific journals.
• Supervised hands-on experience with animals.
• Met the course work and experience requirements for certification as set forth by the Animal Behavior Society.

The full criteria is listed here. Guess how many there are in NYC? Three. The CAAB has a nice listing of the handful of them in the US on their site. This doesn’t stop many trainers from calling themselves “animal behaviorists” when they’re not I could probably do that too, but I’d rather not lie to the public.

They’ve had good teachers

You’d be hard pressed to find two dog trainers who have taken the same path to get where there are. There are few credentialed university or college level programs out there; there are some correspondence courses and short classes (maybe a weekend, maybe a few months) that promise varying degrees of expertise. Many excellent trainers have gained all their knowledge through experience, seminars and books but never went to school. There are a handful of Positive Reinforcement trainers that have their own education and certification programs, among them: Jean Donaldson, Pat Miller, Victoria Stillwell, and Karen Pryor. If you’re trainer has studied with any of these people, that’s a good sign.

They have credentials

Someone who doesn’t list any credentials probably doesn’t have any. On the beginning of every episode of The Dog Whisperer, Cesar Millan claims to have been born with the knowledge he imparts to dog owners. Do you want a doctor operating on you because he was born with that knowledge?

You don’t need any kind of license to become a dog trainer. Print out a business card and you’ve got as much of a right to instruct dogs as anyone else. Unfortunately, the certification options are still kind of limited and flimsy and not unified. Different schools offer different certifications. Annie of School For The Dogs, for instance, is a Karen Pryor Academy Certified Training Partner. Fancy! The main certifying body for dog trainers is the Certification Council For Professional Dog Trainers, which offers the title “CCPDT-KA” (for Knowledge Assessed) to trainers who have at least 300-hours of experience and who pass their test, which covers everything from learning theory to canine husbandry. There are about 2,000 CCPDT-KAs in the country. In my experience, if a trainer is a CCPDT-KA or KSA (Knowledge Skills Assessed, the next level up), it’s still no guarantee that they’re awesome. But it’s an indication that they’ve had some kind of minimum of experience and made an effort to search out a way to validate their knowledge. You can also ask a trainer to document if they have any CEUs (Continuing Education Units) that they’ve acquired at seminars and conferences. There’s always more to learn, and a good trainer should always be a student.

There are also several professional organizations that you can join if you’re a trainer (among them: APDT and IAABC). The membership will generally get you a spot in their professional listings, discounts, and a badge for your site, among other things. Usually you only have to pay to be in such organization; there is no vetting process. It’s certainly a good thing rather than a bad thing for a trainer to be part of a professional organization like this, but it also may not mean a whole lot.

Of course, good credentials don’t mean that a particular person will be the best adviser for you and your dog. Teachers may have different teaching philosophies and ways of conveying information; students may have different learning styles. That means that two students might have very different responses to two equally credentialed instructors.

They are clear about their training philosophy

Be wary of someone who doesn’t elaborate on their training philosophy or goals. If they say “We do all kinds of dog training,” walk away. It’s like saying, “I treat children in all kinds of ways.” Too broad: That could mean “I force feed them ice cream” or it could mean “I sodomize them.” Yikes. It’s a similar cop-out to say they don’t just use one method, because that’s a given. Every dog is different, we all know that, but I strongly believe forcing a dog to learn via intimidation will damage the dog and your relationship with it. Therefore, I do not use my hands to force a dog to do anything and I will gladly state that up front. Anyone who doesn’t, probably does use force and intimidation to get results. That doesn’t mean I don’t ever use a firm tone of voice or time-outs, but that’s much different from leash-jerks or pinning a dog on its side.

They don’t “guarantee” results

Promising training results is a ridiculous marketing gimmick. To do so implies that you think your techniques will work on every family with every dog, instead of acknowledging that every dog and situation is different. Also, because of the variables in dog breeding and owner commitment and experience, a trainer cannot predict the future. What if the recommended training plan isn’t feasible to the owner? Is that a failure? And what about all that happens after your trainer stops working with you and your dog? There are probably many convicts who had really good kindergarten teachers.

What you should instead look for is a trainer who guarantees satisfaction with their service: they guarantee their knowledge, professionalism and guidance. I personally guarantee that you can speak to satisfied people I’ve worked with before. I could also “guarantee” if I had most problem dogs living with me I could make significant changes in their behavior, but I wouldn’t tell a client that, because it’s irrelevant. They don’t live with me. I have to work with you, your specific limitations and the framework of your life.

They have insurance

Any professional who works with dogs in people’s homes or in a classroom setting should have dog training insurance. Many also are bonded. A trainer should indicate this on their Website and should be able to provide proof if asked.

They don’t place blame

Whatever problems you are having with your dog, it isn’t your fault. And it isn’t your dog’s fault. It’s the fault of poor communication, and that‘s the thing that a dog trainer should be helping you with–not figuring out which one of you needs the bigger time out.

I get really fired up when I see people getting taken advantage of. I’m in it for the dogs and their families and to prevent more dogs from ending up in shelters. If I were wealthy enough, I wouldn’t charge a thing. That kind of passion and devotion means I keep up to date with the most recent research. All that research shows that the behavioral fallout from using force just isn’t worth it in the long run. While you might get the behavior you desire at the moment, I’ve seen the long-term damage it creates and it doesn’t make for a long healthy journey with your dog.

The first step down that road? Asking the right questions before someone guides you to take the wrong turn.

This article originally appeared on thedo.gs

Illustration by Gaby D’Alessandro

Disco and Phoebe practice eye contact at the beach!

As a trainer and owner of a Bully breed I always recommend teaching your dog by using reward-based methods.

Did you know that by using aversive, fear-based training methods you can actually destroy the trust and bond you have with your dog?

In addition, bully breeds are typically very thick-skinned and can take quite a lot of “aversive” before being intimidated into modifying their behavior. Any dog (especially of Bully-descent) can also habituate to pain over time so a leash jerk that might have initially startled your dog can quickly lose it’s effectiveness after a hundred repetitions.

So I ask a question that may be rhetorical to most; would you rather have a dog that follows your cues out of fear or respect?

Fear

Let’s talk about what constitute aversive, fear-based methods besides jerking the leash. Basically, think of any way to intimidate, startle or frighten a dog into achieving results and you’ve got an aversive. Aversives can include alpha rolls, jabbing a dog lightly with your hand, or holding a dog on its side until they stop struggling. Most people probably think this sounds horrible yet there are so-called trainers out there convincing owners they need to use these methods with their Bully’s to show they are “in charge.” The wolf pack studies that this dominance theory of training was initially based on have been shown to be inaccurate. However, it’s a concept that remains because it seems accessible to people. If you use these methods you will probably see the appearance of control and compliance, but at what cost? The trust and bond you have with your dog is slowly being eroded. Yep, you’ll probably have an obedient dog, but it will be because they’re living in fear of the consequence of every move they make. Is this the kind of relationship we want to have with our family pets?

Respect

On the other end of the spectrum, reward-based training isn’t just showering a dog with treats and praise. It’s based on understanding how dogs think and learn and then smartly rewarding them when they are doing something “good” and ignoring/redirecting behaviors when they are doing something “bad.” Always remember that dogs are just being dogs. Their behavior is not “bad” in their world, it has been somehow rewarded in the past and therefore “good” or successful for them. To be fair, they live in a world run by humans so why shouldn’t we show them the ropes in a way they can easily understand? Also note that most reward-based trainers do actually use mild forms of punishment to let the dog know a behavior is unwanted BUT the good ones never use force or intimidation. Punishment is not a dirty word unless it’s tainted with force or intimidation. An example of a mild punishment would be turning your back and ignoring on a dog who has jumped up on you or giving a 15-second timeout from play when your puppy’s teeth hit your skin. Smart, force-free punishment is just as effective in letting discouraging a behavior and doesn’t scare or intimidate your dog. Smart rewarding doesn’t always have to be done with food. Once your dog gets the concept of training, you can (and should!) use real-world rewards daily and food every once in a while. Aside from creating a dog that fears you or the choke collar when you use aversives, I think the key difference between using rewards and using aversives has to do with motivation.

Motivation

Bottom line: do you want your dog to selectively listen to you when you have treats in your hand or a choke collar on him? Or would you prefer that he actually WANTS to listen because you have a fair and balanced relationship based on trust and respect? It’s a no-brainer for me but give this question some thought and decide for yourself. If you decide trust and respect is the way to go, smart, reward-based training is for you!

As Bully owners I think it’s especially important that we lead the charge on using force-free methods with our dogs. We usually get a lot of attention on the street and should be setting the standards for having breed ambassadors and getting people educated in the most effective and healthy ways to train our four-legged friends whether they be Bullies or Chihuahuas!

–
Original article appeared on That Touch of Pit, a blog that celebrates pit bull-like dogs while changing minds.

As a former daycare handler, I wholeheartedly agree with the premise of this piece – daycare can be a great choice for some dogs, but not for all. It’s also very important to find a daycare that trains their handlers to observe the dogs closely and manage the playgroup dynamic accordingly.

DOG DAYCARE

More than fun and games

You have an all-day work event, your dog walker comes down with something and your back-up help is out of town. Then you see the ad for a local dog-daycare facility: “We can help! We offer 12 hours of fun and socialization for your dog.” The message is accompanied by cute photos of pooches at play. Should you be sold?

Across the U.S., dog-daycare businesses — franchises and single-owner operations alike — are flourishing. They offer your dog what you sometimes cannot: playmates, companionship and supervision when other commitments take you away from home. Most keep hours similar to those of daycare centers for children: drop your dog off before work, pick her up afterward.

Do dog daycares provide a necessary service for both dogs and owners? Are all daycares created equal? Is dog daycare an option you should consider? The answer is a resounding “It depends.”

Marc Bekoff, PhD, a University of Colorado ethologist who has studied dogs and their wild relatives for more than four decades, gives the concept of dog daycare a thumbs-up: “I love the idea. I think they provide a great function. At the same time, daycare should not replace people spending a good deal of time with their dogs.” E’Lise Christensen, DVM, and board-certified veterinary behaviorist in New York City, agrees “For healthy, active, social dogs, daycare can be a great outlet for getting exercise and social enrichment.”

In fact, this belief is exactly what originally spurred the development of the dog daycare industry. “In the early 1990s, training professionals found there was a need for dogs to get out of the house, socialize and engage in mental stimulation and physical exercise,” explains Melinda Miller, hospital director at Smith Ridge Veterinary Center in South Salem, N.Y.

Social play and mental stimulation are the main reasons many people choose to enroll their dogs in daycare. Mat Zucker of New York City has been taking his co-pilot Ezra to Paws in Chelsea three times a week for the last nine years. “When Ezra was a puppy, it was a great place for him to burn off energy, be social and run around. We were worried he would be bored home alone.”

Zucker makes a good point. The complex process of domestication did not shape dogs for solitary living (raise your hand if one is napping at your feet as you read this). On the other hand, dogs did not evolve to engage in all-day play sessions either.

The Social Scene

Dog daycare websites feature buzz words like “play,” “fun” and “canine friends,” words that, for owners, readily elicit images of their dog exuberantly sparring with a new best friend. But what do social experiences at dog daycares look like?

In the daycare setting, dyadic play (play between two dogs) is probably the most prevalent type. A recent study* investigating social play in adult, group-housed dogs at a boarding kennel found that of 343 social-play bouts, all but one were dyadic in nature. “This is not surprising,” notes Alexandra Horowitz, PhD, and term assistant professor of psychology at Barnard College, who has studied dog play behavior extensively.** “Dyadic play is an easier dynamic for most dogs than triadic or larger-group play. In a bigger group of players, it would be hard to have play signals in all those different directions, and a dog could certainly miss something. Because of the complexity of play, this high-paced, rambunctious activity needs a lot of coordination.”

The idea of giving dogs space to play might seem straightforward enough, but there’s more to it than simply providing square feet. Numerous factors can influence the presence, or absence, of happy frolicking. While a dog’s physical size warrants consideration when forming daycare playgroups, play style is paramount. Becky Trisko, PhD, behaviorist and owner of Unleashed in Evanston, Ill., knows this well. “A good daycare surveys play styles and groups dogs accordingly. At the same time, [it] also allows flexibility between groups throughout the day to manage personalities and excitement levels.”

When it comes to play, turning up the dial is not always better.

As Miller explains, “Hyper dogs allowed to get into a frenzy and maintain that level of excitement all day can be worse in the home than they were before they went to daycare. Staff members who help dogs learn about relaxed play and recognize when dogs need time out or a change of pace and rest are helping both dog and owner.” Trisko agrees. “Owners often assume that an exhausted dog is a happy dog. But an exhausted dog could also be an irritated dog.”

In a well-run daycare, these issues are addressed by handlers who ensure that dogs engage in the congenial play their owners envision. While no formal research has been done to validate these numbers, the consensus is that an ideal handler-to-dog ratio is 1:10, or 1:15 at the outside (Christensen recommends a ratio of 1:5). If groups grow in size, so too should the level of human attention. But even with multiple human hands on deck, large dog groups can be challenging to manage. Kate Senisi, a former daycare employee, knows this firsthand. “Daycares that create multiple, smaller groups within a space, as opposed to one large group, allow for more direct supervision of the dogs. But that also means that the daycare has to provide additional staff to cover the new groups,” she says.

Done right, supervision gives dogs the variety they need within a complex environment. Though many daycares tend to highlight “all-day play,” a quick review of online daycare videos reveals dogs engaged in any number of activities. Some dogs play, some watch; others investigate something on the floor, jump on a handler, sit in a handler’s lap or lie on the floor. In other words, individual dogs have a range of interests that shift moment by moment, and good supervision can facilitate this variety.

According to Horowitz, it’s important that dogs have options and control. “Not to say that the dog is dictating the day, but that the dog has options to be social, to be with a person or by themselves. That would be the highest-quality day: a lot of things to do and being able to make choices about when and with whom to do it.”

Handlers perform a critical role in promoting fun and safety. Much like playground monitors, they pick up on individual behavioral cues — for example, noticing when a dog becomes anxious or has simply been playing for three hours straight and could use a change of pace. Fun can quickly disappear when a dog finds himself in an environment that conflicts with his own emotional state.

The often-overlooked aspect of dog daycare is, of course, learning.

“An important factor to consider,” says Laura Monaco Torelli, director of training at Animal Behavior Training Concepts in Chicago, “is that dogs are always learning, even in the daycare environment.” Since most daycares do not explicitly advertise training, owners might not readily notice this aspect. But watch any dog, and you’ll find that various behaviors and emotional states are being reinforced, or not reinforced, over the course of the day by humans, other dogs or even the environment. Just as a toddler might return from preschool with his first painting of a flower and a bit of an attitude, so too might a dog return from daycare played out, but a bit jumpier and mouthier than when he went in.

Practical Considerations

At the end of the day, dog daycares are businesses; moreover, they are unregulated businesses. While daycare owners, managers and employees probably become involved in this particular enterprise because they love dogs and are interested in promoting canine welfare, it is an industry with no agreed upon set of “best practices.” Some might have learned the business from authorities such as Robin Bennett or Gail Fisher; for others, a random instructional DVD might suffice.

Some daycares highlight their facilities’ bells and whistles: climate control, dog cams, unique flooring or even a particular type of background music. Unfortunately, many daycare websites are silent on the less flashy ethological and organizational considerations that are most relevant to those concerned about their dogs’ welfare. For example, daycares rarely describe daily play and rest schedules, handling techniques, procedures for introducing new dogs to the group, criteria that determine how dogs are grouped, handler-to-dog ratios, access to outdoor space and staff first-aid training.

There are many ways to handle the daily influx of bouncing dogs, and at their best, daycares do this by viewing every dog as an individual. Some daycares rely on message boards to keep track of the different canine personalities gracing their establishments. Descriptors might read: “Don’t let anyone jump on Tiger’s back. Keep Sam from being overstimulated. Keep Janet from eating rocks or poop.” But how do daycares uncover these nuances?

A behavior assessment is the first step toward getting to know each dog’s unique ethological needs. Even if a dog has been comfortable in comparable settings, there’s no foolproof way to predict how he or she will feel in a novel environment. Each daycare provides a unique stew of sights, smells, sounds, movements and management styles, and any dog could be less than thrilled with the surroundings. Even dogs described by their owners as “social butterflies” or “happy players” do not necessarily thrive in every setting. (I am reminded of a therapy-dog certification class I once observed. The behavior of two of the dogs screamed out, “Umm, may I please be excused from this experience?” Their owners were surprised by their reactions.)

Assessments can also identify dogs who are not likely to be thrilled about daycare from the get-go. For some, discomfort with other dogs could spark aggression; others might be unable to de-stress in a group setting. With this information, daycares can evaluate whether they have the staff know how and facility design to admit such dogs. Dog owners not only expect their dogs to be having positive experiences at daycare, they also expect them to be exposed to suitable playmates. “I like that Huey had a behavior test, because that means the other dogs also had a test,” says Beth Windler, a Minnesota dog owner and once-a week daycare patron. For Windler, this was particularly relevant after Huey, a happy-go-lucky Basset Hound, was injured at a dog park.

The behavior assessment is just the beginning of the story. John Squires, owner and manager of Wag Club in Brooklyn, N.Y., stresses that the daycare facility has an ongoing role in habituating each dog to its setting and rewarding good behavior. He has found that, unfortunately, not all daycares prioritize such methods. Some accept dogs who are completely unsuited for a daycare environment without taking steps to help them acclimate, which could lead to a dog spending most of his time in a kennel rather than interacting with others.

It’s easy to get caught up in procedures and forget about the people. Just as a love of children does not necessarily make someone a competent first grade teacher, a love of dogs doesn’t automatically equip a person to manage the behaviors and personalities of a group of them. “Is a daycare just looking for warm bodies who like dogs and can stay there for eight hours a day?” asks Miller. Christensen adds, “Is the staff trained [in] the basics of dog behavior as based on science, not popular wisdom?” Staffers’ ability to recognize stress and discomfort is just as important as their understanding of the complex set of movements that make up play. Play and aggressive displays share many elements, and even to a watchful, astute eye, meanings can change quickly. According to Monaco Torelli, “Observation of canine communication is a critical variable of proactive management in daycares.”

So, is doggie daycare a necessary part of life for every dog? The answer lies largely with the individual dog. Some daycares are better than others at maximizing fun and safety and decreasing fear and stress. At the same time, dog daycare is not the only game in town. Your dog might prefer a long walk, a training class, a trip to the dog park, an open window where he can take in the passing sights and sounds, or a small playgroup. Consider what’s important to and appropriate for your dog. Also consider how you might be able to build time for these extras into your schedule.

When thinking about our dogs’ quality of life, most of us inevitably ask the question, “What should my dog be doing all day while I’m gone?” If you think the answer for your dog involves daycare, then the next question is, “Which one?” A little due diligence on your part will result in a solution that’s right for your pup.

References

* Adler, Carina, et al. 2011. Social play behavior of group-housed domestic dogs (Canis familiaris). Journal of Veterinary Behavior 6 (2): 98.

** Horowitz, Alexandra. 2009. Attention to attention in domestic dog (Canis familiaris) dyadic play. Animal Cognition 12 (1): 107–118.

- From The Bark Magazine’s February 2012 Daycare Article.

Highly adoptable Jennings! Shepherd Mix

Jennings thrives on praise and would do best in a home that will continue to build up his confidence with kind consistency. His whole body wags and he loves to give kisses once he gets to know you. He would make a great addition to any family looking to adopt a low-key but fun, goofy guy!

He’s a bit shy with new people but once he bonds with you, he’s smitten. At two-years old, he’s past his adolescence and has a medium level of energy. He’s house-trained, likes to play, go for walks and just lay around with his humans! He knows some basic training cues and walks nicely on leash. He weighs in at about 55/60 lbs.

Behavior: People

While Jennings isn’t an instant bonder with people, once you’ve earned his trust he becomes your best friend and wants to hang out with you all day! He is a bit hand-shy when he first meets strangers so would need an owner willing to take the time to coach people on letting him approach first and take his time with introductions. I haven’t observed him around children yet but assume he would do well as he came from a home with 3 children and the owners reported no issues. He is very gentle so as long as the children are given basic instructions on how to handle him I expect he’d do very well!

Behavior: Dogs

He enjoys greeting other dogs on leash and has good socialization skills. He plays well with our dog Disco and although he’s not a marathon bully-player, he still knows how to get down! He and Disco share toys appropriately and even play tug.

He would do fine living with another dog as long as the owner is willing to manage resources properly as he initially showed some minor signs of dog-dog resource guarding (ie: guarding his bed/crate from our dog Disco.) He does not guard anything from humans but this is something a new owner should still be made aware of so they can be sure to prevent any future occurrences. I would be happy to discuss the specifics and how to prevent it as needed!

Behavior: Cats/Small Animals

Jennings was initially quite fearful of Sir Charles (our cat) and growled/backed away but once we did some basic counter-conditioning (pairing some tasty treats with the cat appearing) he’s quickly come around. He now sniffs curiously but still keeps his distance. I think he could definitely live with a cat as long as the owner is prepared to do some basic training with the two. He seems to have a normal level of prey drive towards small animals (ie. pigeons) as his ears and tail perk up but he doesn’t lunge or try to get to them.

Jennings is neutered, micro-chipped and up-to-date on all shots.

Check out a fun video of Jennings and Disco playing!

Contact kate@katesenisi.com or Animal Haven if interested in adopting

Animal Haven’s Adoption Process | Adoption fee: $250

Below is a short video on work-to-eat toys and more of their benefits/uses as well as my favorite toys that are Disco tested and approved!

Dear Mr. Millan,

Before I knew anything about learning theory and behavior modification I was a fan of your show. In fact, you could even say it played a large part in inspiring me to change my professional career path at the ripe age of 26 – imagine that! I was interested in figuring out how to help owners and their dogs and your show appeared to have all the right stuff. It was on National Geographic and all, how could it possibly be promoting methods that have been scientifically proven to be ineffective and damaging?

As I began to read, attend seminars, and actually work with dogs, I started to uncover the truth about using the alpha/dominance-based theories you promote. I witnessed behavior getting worse from these techniques before my very eyes. I thought, oh, wow. Well, maybe Cesar just hasn’t read the memo yet. So, have you?

Honestly, I’d like to know: have you read the position statement on the use of dominance-based training methods that the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior released in 2009? If so, how can you possibly still be continuing on with these methods as if all is well? It makes a pretty solid case for this “theory” of behavior modification to be discontinued immediately. The AVSAB is a group of veterinarians and research professionals committed to improving the quality of life of all animals and strengthening the bond between animals and their owners. Isn’t this a cause you are committed to as well? I would think this would be worth your time to read.

If you haven’t read the position statement, the salient points are re-posted below. It would be great if you could read it and provide educated comments so we can continue to improve the quality of life of our animals and strengthen the bond between animals and their owners. That’s what we all want, right?
Thanks,
Me

Position Statement on the Use of Dominance Theory
in Behavior Modification of Animals

Taken from the AVSAB’s full position statement

AVSAB is concerned with the recent re-emergence of dominance theory and forcing dogs and other animals into submission as a means of preventing and correcting behavior problems. For decades, some traditional animal training has relied on dominance theory and has assumed that animals misbehave primarily because they are striving for higher rank. This idea often leads trainers to believe that force or coercion must be used to modify these undesirable behaviors.

In the last several decades, our understanding of dominance theory and of the behavior of domesticated animals and their wild counterparts has grown considerably, leading to updated views. To understand how and whether to apply dominance theory to behavior in animals, it’s imperative that one first has a basic understanding of the principles.

Definition of Dominance

Dominance is defined as a relationship between individual animals that is established by force/aggression and submission, to determine who has priority access to multiple resources such as food, preferred resting spots, and mates (Bernstein 1981; Drews 1993). A dominance-submissive relationship does not exist until one individual consistently submits or defers. In such relationships, priority access exists primarily when the more dominant individual is present to guard the resource. For instance, in a herd comprised of several bulls and many cows, the subordinate males avoid trying to mate when the dominant bull is near or they defer when the dominant bull approaches (Yin 2009). However, they will mate with females when the dominant bull is far away, separated by a barrier, or out of visual sight. By mating in this manner, subordinate bulls are not challenging the dominant bull’s rank; rather, they are using an alternate strategy for gaining access to mates.

In our relationship with our pets, priority access to resources is not the major concern. The majority of behaviors owners want to modify, such as excessive vocalization, unruly greetings, and failure to come when called, are not related to valued resources and may not even involve aggression. Rather, these behaviors occur because they have been inadvertently rewarded and because alternate appropriate behaviors have not been trained instead. Consequently, what owners really want is not to gain dominance, but to obtain the ability to influence their pets to perform behaviors willingly — which is one accepted definition of leadership (Knowles and Saxberg 1970; Yin 2009).

Applying Dominance Theory to Human-Animal Interactions Can Pose Problems

Even in the relatively few cases where aggression is related to rank, applying animal social theory and mimicking how animals would respond can pose a problem. First, it can cause one to use punishment, which may suppress aggression without addressing the underlying cause. Because fear and anxiety are common causes of aggression and other behavior problems, including those that mimic resource guarding, the use of punishment can directly exacerbate the problem by increasing the animal’s fear or anxiety (AVSAB 2007).

Second, it fails to recognize that with wild animals, dominance-submissive relationships are reinforced through warning postures and ritualistic dominance and submissive displays. If the relationship is stable, then the submissive animal defers automatically to the dominant individual. If the relationship is less stable, the dominant individual has a more aggressive personality, or the dominant individual is less confident about its ability to maintain a higher rank, continued aggressive displays occur (Yin 2007, Yin 2009.)

Despite the fact that advances in behavior research have modified our understanding of social hierarchies in wolves, many animal trainers continue to base their training methods on outdated perceptions of dominance theory.
(Refer to Myths About Dominance and Wolf Behavior as It Relates to Dogs)

• Dominance is defined as a relationship between individual animals that is established by force/aggression and submission, to determine who has priority access to multiple resources such as food, preferred resting spots, and mates (Bernstein 1981; Drews 1993). Most undesirable behaviors in our pets are not related to priority access to resources; rather, they are due to accidental rewarding of the undesirable behavior.

• The AVSAB recommends that veterinarians not refer clients to trainers or behavior consultants who coach and advocate dominance hierarchy theory and the subsequent confrontational training that follows from it.

• Instead, the AVSAB emphasizes that animal training, behavior prevention strategies, and behavior modification programs should follow the scientifically based guidelines of positive reinforcement, operant conditioning, classical conditioning, desensitization, and counter conditioning.

• The AVSAB recommends that veterinarians identify and refer clients only to trainers and behavior consultants who understand the principles of learning theory and who focus on reinforcing desirable behaviors and removing the reinforcement for undesirable behaviors.

Stop by the Upper West-side store location for details and coupon at 159 Columbus Ave. (between 67-68th Street.)

The Adult 1 group class is designed to help you communicate more effectively with your older puppy or mature dog. Dogs will learn basic and advanced behaviors including “Leave It,” “Wait” and how to walk nicely on the leash. This class also addresses typical adolescent challenges such as jumping, chewing and barking.

The 6-week Puppy 1 group class focuses on socialization and is designed to teach your puppy all the basics such as sitting, walking on a loose leash and to come when called. This class also covers problem-solving ideas and management for potty training, chewing, jumping, digging and more.

Check out my calendar to see when the next round of classes start.

Mia (aka Mimi!) takes a break from a hard day at work!

Lil’ 6 month old Mia arrived in New York City a bit overwhelmed but has quickly settled into a new routine and is now enjoying herself to the fullest! She’s great on the leash, even offering frequent eye contact to her handler, which is a huge plus in a busy environment! She’s an absolute cuddle-bug but also quite spunky and loves to play. Her huge bat ears standing up will let you know when she’s intrigued by something!

Favorite Things

• Cuddling
• Playing tug with Disco
• Running
• Giving kisses

Behavior

Mia is still a young puppy so she needs a family who will provide lots of positive reinforcement and guidance to show her how to fit into their lives as she grows into an adult. She’s already made great progress with “sit”, “down”, “touch” and “leave it” and we work daily on lots of impulse control exercises to teach her that waiting = good things happen!

She is beautifully crate-trained, goes into her crate readily and even on her own sometimes to lie down or take a break. She is also pretty much house-trained! In her new home she’ll need a vigilant family to keep her on a regular feeding/water/potty schedule so she can stay on track. House-training can easily slip when moving to a new environment if not managed properly!

She has a medium level of energy. She loves to run and play but is also content to settle down and cuddle up once she’s gotten some play time in.

She is not super mouthy (unless she’s playing with Disco) and is quickly getting the right idea from us that mouth on skin = fun stops.

People

Mia’s been friendly with everyone we’ve met so far and especially seems to love kids! She wants to stop and meet everyone on the street and usually lots of people want to meet her too! Since she’s so young, she tends to get excited and may try to jump up so we’ve worked a lot on having her sit or keep all four paws on the ground while being petted. She is very gentle though and loves to lick faces. She would do well in a family with children as long as they are supervised and shown how to properly play and handle her.

Cats/Small Animals

She is definitely interested in our cat (Sir Charles) but can be redirected with verbal prompting and the “leave it” cue if he starts to get annoyed. She likes to sniff him and give play bows, all very friendly signals. On the street, she is excited by squirrels and birds but is so young that redirection is easy. This would be something to continue to work on through her adolescent period as well.

Dogs

Mia loves other greeting other dogs and seems to greatly enjoy co-habitating with Disco. (Our 1.5 yr old male pup.) She greets other dogs on the street very nicely and knows how to be gentle and slow-moving with smaller or older dogs who aren’t bouncy.

She’s exhibited no resource guarding of any kind around other dogs or us and is great at sharing! She’s gotten along well with all the dogs we’ve met and is very sociable.

Mia is spayed, micro-chipped and will be up to date on all shots at time of adoption.

Check out a fun video of Mia and Disco playing

Contact kate@katesenisi.com or Rescue-a-Bull if interested in adopting Mia (*listed on their site as Mimi!)

Application and home visit required.

Adoption fee for Mia: $250

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Did you know… that the term Pitbull is simply a made up term used to describe dogs that look like American Staffordshire Terriers, Staffordshire Bull Terriers and American Pit Bull Terriers? (The last of which are not actually even recognized by the AKC as an official breed.)

The dogs most people refer to as Pitbulls are sometimes any combination of those three breeds, or sometimes none at all! Can you find the Pitbull here? (*check out the full post on this topic)